Tanja's Jewellery Blog Articles

Top 6 Reasons to Pivot to a Jewellery Career

tuan@jdmis.edu.sg (Tuan Anh) — Sat, 11 Nov 2023 04:20:29 +0800

Have you ever wondered what it's like to have a career in jewellery design? Hi, I'm Alex Zupancich, JDMIS' Director and Digital Jewellery Design instructor at JDMIS. As someone who has transitioned from the high-paced I.T. industry to the enchanting world of jewellery, I can tell you firsthand—it's a journey worth taking. Let me share with you the reasons why joining the field of jewellery design can be one of the most rewarding decisions you'll ever make.

You can watch my 6-minute video presentation or if you prefer to read, you can continue with the article below instead:

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Autonomy and Creativity

As a jewellery designer, I've found an unprecedented level of autonomy and creativity. This isn't just a job; it's a passion that allows us to connect deeply with our clients and work. The satisfaction of generating happiness through my designs, while also being valued for my multi-disciplinary skills within my organization, is indescribable.

The Thriving Jewellery Industry

The global jewellery market is booming, expected to grow from about 271 billion U.S. dollars to an astonishing 650 billion dollars by 2035. In Singapore alone, this industry contributed a remarkable 3 billion dollars to the Retail GDP in 2019, making it a lucrative field with great potential for professional growth.

A Happy Industry

Jewellery design is undeniably a happy industry. We don't just create products; we craft experiences and memories. Celebrating life's milestones with bespoke pieces that clients will treasure forever gives a profound sense of fulfillment that's hard to find in any other profession.

Mastering Timeless Skills and Modern Technology

Did you know that the first pieces of jewellery date back to 3000 BC? While the industry honors its rich heritage, it also embraces modern technology. As a jewellery designer, I leverage tools like computer-aided design and manufacturing to bring my visions to life in ways that were once unimaginable.

Beginner-Friendly Career Path

Don't let a lack of artistic background deter you. Jewellery design, much like any skill, can be learned and perfected over time. With dedication and practice, anyone can become adept at expressing creativity through stunning jewellery pieces.

Plenty of Room for Growth

The role of a jewellery designer is not confined to the design table. There's immense potential for entrepreneurship. From starting your own brand to crafting unique pieces for a niche market, the possibilities are endless. And with JDMIS, you're equipped with both design and gemmological knowledge to excel in your endeavors.

How to Get Started

Are you ready to begin your adventure in professional jewellery design? The Jewellery Design and Management International School (JDMIS) is your premier destination for comprehensive jewellery education. Our exclusive curriculum includes certifications, diplomas, and pathways to prestigious UK university degrees.

Since 1987, JDMIS has been at the forefront of training Singapore's jewelers and artisans. With our unique approach to education, you'll gain invaluable skills and knowledge. Just ask our successful graduates, like Cathy Que Liping and Kajal Naina, whose journeys from gaming and dentistry to award-winning jewellery designers are nothing short of inspiring.

Natural vs Synthetic Diamonds: Understanding their differences

tuan@jdmis.edu.sg (Tuan Anh) — Tue, 10 Oct 2023 05:32:00 +0800

The diamond trade has always been shrouded in intrigue and allure. But with new lab-grown diamond options now available, discerning the differences between natural and synthetic diamonds becomes critical. This guide, together with our recorded session from the JDMIS Gem Jamming Session at the National Design Centre illuminates these interesting aspects of the diamond world.

The Centuries-Long Allure of Diamonds

For thousands of years across cultures, diamonds were associated with royalty, mystical powers, and prominence. Only elites could afford the extraordinarily rare crystals.

This exclusivity was amplified in the 20th century through De Beers' wildly successful "A Diamond is Forever" marketing campaign. Launched in 1947, it cemented the tradition of diamond engagement rings, greatly expanding consumer demand.

Natural Diamond Mining - An Intricate Process

Diamonds originate 90-120 miles beneath the Earth's surface, where heat and pressure crystallize carbon into diamond over billions of years. Powerful volcanic eruptions transported some diamonds closer to the surface over time.

Most diamonds today come from open-pit or underground mines. Open pit mines involve massive excavations up to 1000 feet deep and over 1 mile across. Underground tunnelling carefully extracts diamond ore.

Alluvial mining around rivers and marine mining along coasts and oceans also recover diamonds washed away from the volcanic pipes over millennia.

Diamonds in nature are a rarity and are not a renewable resource. Global diamond production has fallen from 178 million carats in 2000 to around 120 million carats today as mature mines close and discoveries dwindle. Over 90% of natural diamonds today come from Russia, Botswana, Democratic Republic of Congo and Canada. Industry expectations are that supplies will continue to slow, making natural diamonds, especially the larger, better quality ones, increasingly rare.

Lab-Created Diamond Production - Simulating Nature Above Ground

In contrast to underground origins, lab diamonds are produced in facilities simulating high pressure and heat conditions to create identical crystals above ground.

There are two main production methods:

HPHT (high pressure, high temperature) which uses presses to mimic underground conditions. This approach requires high energy input.

CVD (chemical vapor deposition) which relies on heating hydrocarbon gases alongside diamond seed plates to stimulate crystal growth. This is lower energy.

Lab diamonds can be ready for cutting and polishing within 2 weeks, rather than the billion-plus years for natural diamonds. China leads in synthetic diamond output, though only about ~1 million carats enters the gemstone market each year currently. The other 99% serves industrial roles.

Sustainability - Considering the Environmental Impact

In the past, traditional jewellers selling natural diamonds have argued against the sustainability claims of lab diamond producers, both because of the high amounts of energy used in production and the fact that mining activities, when conducted responsibly, support infrastructure and education in developing nations.

Today however, with improvements in technology and more and cheaper renewable sources of electricity, lab diamonds can offer a much more compelling sustainability argument. However, well-regulated mining still provides essential economic benefits to communities.

Consumers should research ethical sourcing for themselves, as challenges persist in fully tracing some diamond origins and monitoring abuses as well as validating claims made by synthetic diamond producers about energy usage and sources. Purchasing from transparent suppliers enables aligning personal values.

Investment Value - Natural vs. Synthetic

Natural diamonds better retain value over time and have an established resale market. This contrasts with synthetic diamonds which depreciate rapidly from retail price and have negligible resale value.

For example, a 1 carat natural diamond might retail for $10,000 while an identical lab diamond sells for around $2,600 - a 75% discount. This divergence between natural and synthetic is even more dramatic with larger, better quality and therefore more rare diamonds. As improving production technology points to continued decline in lab diamond prices, there is no logical justification today for considering a created diamond as an ‘investment’ or even a reasonable store of value.

Affordable Alternatives - Diamond Simulants

For budget-driven buyers, diamond simulants like cubic zirconia and moissanite allow getting the diamond look at a fraction of the cost. These materials have even lower production energy requirements that created diamonds and provide interesting options for certain budget and environment conscious buyers to consider.

Watch the entire Gem Jamming Session

JDMIS director Alex Zupancich goes into more detail on each of these topics in the Gem Jamming session on Natural vs Synthetic Diamonds conducted at JDMIS in the National Design Centre. The full recording of his session may be found below.

More about JDMIS

The Jewellery Design & Managment International School (JDMIS) is the leading specialised Jewellery School in Singapore and Asia. Founded in 2007, JDMIS has grown into an established regional training brand, delivering exceptional jewellery education to over 20,000 individuals from over 56 different countries and training the best local and international brands.

From Rarity to Radiance: The Surging Appeal of Coloured Gemstones in Gemmology

tanja@jdmis.edu.sg (Tanja Sadow) — Wed, 13 Sep 2023 09:07:19 +0800

Isn't it fascinating how coloured gemstones like spinels, peridots, and tourmalines are sparking so much interest across the globe in recent years? Diamonds may have had a long reign as a girl’s best friend, but these vibrant and unique gems are now stealing the limelight! The shift in gemstone preference isn't just happening with royal brides like Meghan Markle, but is also evident on the shelves of iconic jewellery houses like Tiffany & Co. and Cartier.

Why this sudden fascination, you ask? A variety of reasons come into play. Firstly, the traditional "Big Four" — white diamonds, red rubies, blue sapphires, and green emeralds — are spiralling in price. As these classic beauties become more unattainable to the general public, other coloured gemstones provide an affordable yet equally beautiful solution.

Secondly, who can resist the stunning spectrum of colours offered by these gems? From the romantic hues of pink morganite to the soothing tones of lilac kunzite and mint tourmalines, there's a colour for every mood, occasion, and individual. Unlike diamonds where the cut is king, coloured gemstones are all about their captivating colour. But when evaluating their value, it’s still important not to neglect the rest of the four C's — cut, clarity, and carat weight.

Investing in coloured gemstones, however, requires caution. Experts advise that it can be a risky business due to the lack of industry-standard pricing and the potential for fraud. While some gemstones have seen their market values rise significantly, it is essential to remember that each stone's value depends on various factors. Therefore, it is crucial to approach gemstone purchases with a focus on appreciation for their beauty, the sentimental value they hold, and the joy they bring, rather than viewing them purely as investment opportunities.

Curious to learn more? I have shared my thoughts on this topic in a detailed article on Channel News Asia. Feel free to explore further here!

Tanja M. Sadow G.J.G.
Dean and founder of the Jewellery Design and Management International School

Gemmology Fundamentals Any Buyer Should Know: The 4Cs and Beyond

tanja@jdmis.edu.sg (Tanja Sadow) — Tue, 29 Aug 2023 03:08:19 +0800

Step into the vibrant realm of gemstones, where nature's artistry meets human craftsmanship. This guide unravels the complex tapestry of gemmology, shedding light on the beautiful mysteries that lie beneath the surface of your favourite jewels. Whether you're a seasoned collector or a novice gem enthusiast, understanding these fundamentals is essential to appreciate the true value of these precious stones.

What is a gem?

The world of gemstones offers such an endless choice of colour and variety of fascinating minerals that they can satisfy even the most difficult of people to please. The history of gemstones goes back for centuries since they were prized long before the diamond was discovered. Many prospectors in the past have risked their lives to find them and still today, although mining conditions in some areas have improved, people continue to put their lives at risk in the search for the most beautiful, naturally created, specimens from earth.

A Mineral is defined as:

A solid crystalline chemical element or compound that results from the inorganic process of nature and that has a characteristic crystal structure and chemical composition or range of compositions.

Within the mineral kingdom the most common characteristics of gemstones are: chemical composition and crystal structure, the combination of which, together with physical and optical properties, are most important in their identification. All minerals that have identical chemical composition (or range of compositions) and identical crystal structure are of the same Species.

There are more than 3500 known species to date and this number is increasing at each year but only a very small proportion of these minerals have the attributes which qualify them as gemstones: Beauty, Durability and Rarity!

For example, Quartz has the chemical composition of SiO2 (known as silica) and a hexagonal crystal structure. It is one of the most common minerals. It is part of many common rocks including granite, but also forms in varieties classified as gems:

Variety Amethyst:	blueish-Purple to Purple to reddish-Purple.
Variety Citrine	Yellow to Orange to brownish-Orange

Picture of 6 different coloured quartzes

Just some quartz varieties: Rock-crystal, Tiger’s eye, Aventurine, Citrine, Smokey, amethyst!

Corundum is another well-known species with many varieties including sapphire & ruby, but different varieties of corundum have dramatically different prices! The key factors that affect a gems value are: Colour, Clarity, Carat Weight and Cut

Colour

In Corundum for example, the Sapphire variety comes in a rainbow of colours ranging from Pinks, Oranges, Yellows, Purples, Greens and even Golden colour.

Ruby, on the other hand, is Red. Ruby is far rarer that other colours of corundum and therefore far more valuable. In the past, pink was thought to be light red and many pink gems were called Ruby (and priced as such!) Padparadscha is the only other variety name given to one of the rarest of the corundum family, it is a blend of Pink and Orange which is quite unique and valuable.

With colour having such an effect on value, since the beginning of the twentieth century gemmologists have created clear means of assessing colour and now prefer to avoid confusion in value and rarity, for example calling Pink corundum, Pink sapphire instead of ruby!

Gemmologists don’t just talk about colour, but break down this important factor into four elements:

Hue: The predominant colour (wavelength)
Tone: The shade of colour (light to dark)
Saturation: The intensity or vividness of colour
Evenness of colour: The absence of colour zoning

Let’s take the Blue Sapphire as an example.

There are differences in opinion as to what is the ‘Best’ Blue. Some prefer just Blue while others will insist that a slightly violets-Blue is a superior colour. However, most people in the industry agree that greenish-Blue sapphires are definitely less valuable. You should always keep in mind that personal preference is most important. When buying any gems remember you will be the one to see it, wear it and enjoy it every day.

The next is tone, how light or dark the colour appears. In some gems the tone can influence the variety name and therefore raise cause to command a distinctly different price! The light tone changes the classification of the stone to Pink sapphire – from the more valuable Ruby, whose tone must be medium to dark.

Where tone is ‘light to dark’, saturation refers to the intensity of the colour, or vividness. A gem with weak saturation appears washed out whereas the more saturated the colour the more vivid, vibrant & expensive!

Finally, evenness of colour is another feature to look for especially in Rubies and Sapphires as many are prone to exhibit colour zoning - Lighter and darker bands of colour running through the gem. Many gems exhibit colour zoning which if easily noticeable will lower the value.

Sapphires which are not such good Hue, very dark, not vivid and with colour zoning are plentiful in the marketplace today! Just because it is a sapphire does NOT mean it is rare or expensive! You can use your understanding of colour, and the terms used by gemmologists to better negotiate your next purchase since gemstone sellers will treat you differently if they know you understand the factors that affect a gems value!

Clarity

Clarity refers to the number and type of internal and external characteristics in a gemstone: Internal Characteristics are called ‘Inclusions’ (NOT imperfections!) and External Characteristics are called ‘Blemishes’. These characteristics affect the value of the stone but are not always bad! In many cases they allow gemmologists to identify genuine gems and even establish whether they were formed naturally!

There are many different clarity grading systems worldwide by many different agencies. One of the most popular is the Gemmological Institute of America that breaks down gemstones into 3 clarity categories:

Type 1

Type 2

Type 3

Normally clean to the naked eye.

Few Characteristics under 10x magnification

Few characteristics visible to the naked eye.

Clearly visible under 10x magnification

Many clear characteristics visible to the naked eye.

Clearly visible under 10x magnification

Eg: Aquamarine, Topaz

Eg: Ruby, Sapphire

Eg: Emerald, Rubellite

While clarity is important in all gems, this factor has less weight than colour and especially for the type 2 and type 3 stones. It is only in colourless gems like Diamond that clarity becomes especially important.

Carat Weight

The carat is a standard measure of weight in gems. The term Carat originated from the carob seed, used since the earliest gem dealings.

The metric system standards for carat weight
were developed in 1913 and equate 1 carat to 0.2 grams. They also divide 1 carat into 100 points.

As gems increase in carat weight the price per carat increases dramatically up to a certain size. Once a gemstone becomes unwearable due to its size – the price per carat tends to drop. This means a one 1ct stone will be much more valuable than two 50-point stones.

Cut

For most gems in the market, cutting is still done by hand! India (Gujarat and Surat) and Thailand (Chanthaburi) are some of the largest cutting centres for gemstones where skilled craftspeople apply each facet one-at-a-time to create the gems we buy today.

Common shapes for different gems are usually determined by how to retain the greatest weight from the rough
crystal; for example, in diamonds, this would be the round shape, in ruby it would be the oval.

For unusual rough however, cutters have invented many beautiful cutting styles and with modern technologies, some gems can even be cut into unusual customized shapes!

The Proportions in cutting gems refer to how deep or shallow the gem is and whether the table and culet or keel line are on or off centre. These measurements are very important!

Stones which are very deep will be difficult to set or look smaller than they should. Often, they will look dark and have reduced brilliance.
A gem which is too shallow might have a large area where the stone becomes ‘see-through’ called a window. Major symmetry problems are not attractive and when easily noticed reduce value substantially.

Gem Simulants

A gemstone Simulant can be described as any material which resembles another, (usually more popular) gemstone, in appearance.

Imitations have existed since the earliest of times and before a system to scientifically classify different types of species was devised most green gems were called Emerald and red gems were called Ruby. These Imitations were either natural gems of a similar colour or glass.

Synthetic gemstones can also be imitations (e.g. Colourless synthetic Spinel or synthetic Rutile are Imitations of Diamond.) Assembled stones and even Plastic can imitate a variety of other well-known Natural gemstones.

Which is genuine?

Ruby or Topaz?

While there are some simple ways to gauge the authenticity of some simulants, often, identifying a simulant requires equipment, practice and experience. As a lay person, you might look for ‘clues’ that don’t fit the quality of the gem you are buying – for example, if you are buying an expensive diamond, yet when you look at the cutting of the gem, it appears poorly cut, or with rounded or scuffed facets, then you might want to do some more investigating before you make a purchase decision!

Experts will examine closely the characteristics of the gemstone: By examining measurable properties like refractive index, refraction, specific gravity, etc, they will conclude about the material they are testing. Most natural gems also have difficult-to-reproduce characteristics that indicate their natural formation.These gems also do not contain gas bubbles – a common give-away in simulants made from glass.

Assembled Gems

Beyond simple substitution, another of the common imitation gems are the assembled stones sometimes referred to as Composite stones of which there are two main types: Doublets and Triplets.

Doublet is a combination of two materials - typically a gem quality material on the top and an inferior material below.

Triplet refers to the use of coloured cement or third coloured layer in-between typically colourless upper & lower portions.

There is no doubt by the way they are cunningly created that the purpose behind most assembled stones (unlike many other Imitations) is to deceive the gem buyer.

Doublets may be reliably detected by immersion in a liquid with an index of refraction like that of the gem fragments; the layer of cement will appear as a dark line. Jewellers will typically use a 3.32 specific gravity liquid (Methylene Iodide) due to its refractive index. But there is no easy way for the lay person to spot these!

Synthetic Gems

A Synthetic Gemstone has essentiality the same chemical composition, crystal structure and consequently the same physical and optical properties as the natural gem it represents with the difference that it is made by Man in a laboratory and not by Nature.

Synthetic gems are most often used for legitimate purposes – ranging from watch components to lower-cost jewellery and it is rare that they are substituted for natural gems.

When they are, however, this poses a serious concern to the jewellery industry and gem-buying public since, having the same chemical composition and crystal structure, these gems have the same characteristics and attributes as their natural counterparts and are very difficult to detect!

Recently however, detection technology is improving, and most international gem labs can spot tell-tale signs of synthetic gems when these gems are sent for identification or grading.

Some jewellery firms even use synthetic gemstones to their marketing benefit – presenting them as ‘cultured gems’ and offering them at a substantial price reduction over their natural counterparts for the price conscious buyer.

As we conclude our exploration of gemmology fundamentals, we hope you now feel more enlightened and confident as a gem buyer. The knowledge of what truly makes a gemstone valuable - its colour, clarity, carat weight, and cut - is your strongest asset when navigating the gem market. With this newfound understanding, may every piece you choose not only sparkle with aesthetic beauty but also resonate with the rich stories of nature and craftsmanship that each gem carries within. But why stop here? With JDMIS' GT100 - Gem and Jewellery Trade Secrets Certification course, you can delve even deeper. Discover the industry's best-kept secrets, learn from renowned experts, and transform your passion into expertise. Don't miss this golden opportunity to elevate your understanding of gemstones and jewellery to professional heights. Visit the GT100 course page and take your first step towards becoming a certified gem connoisseur today!

Tanja M. Sadow G.J.G.
Dean and founder of the Jewellery Design and Management International School

The Ultimate Guide on How to Clean and Restore Your Jewellery at Home

tuan@jdmis.edu.sg (Tuan Anh) — Mon, 07 Aug 2023 09:47:55 +0800

Wouldn't it be great if the sparkle from new jewellery remained forever? But unfortunately, it doesn't take long for the shine to fade. Exposure to things like chemicals, dirt, and the lotions we apply on our skin can clog and dull our jewellery.

Your jewellery collection should and could look its best all the time! Whether they are pieces we wear on a regular basis, or ones we keep in our jewellery box, we probably all have jewellery pieces that are long due for a good cleaning. Professional cleaning is an option, but I will show you an easier, low-cost method to clean your jewellery at home. And, you're likely to already have the supplies you need for this project at home!

From necklaces to rings, diamonds to coloured gemstones, gold to silver, this guide will take you through the process of cleaning different types of jewellery, so they can regain their sparkle and shine!

*IMPORTANT: The instructions in this guide are NOT for pearls strung on silk which have their own special process that requires restringing.

Preparation:

Before you begin with the cleaning, it's essential to prepare some basic supplies that you most likely already have at home. You'll need:

A bowl with a small amount of clean water
Mild hand wash or dishwashing liquid (preferably one that is gentle on your skin)
A soft toothbrush (e.g. baby's toothbrush)
Paper towels or a clean cloth to keep everything dry

Assessing Your Jewellery:

Take a moment to carefully examine each piece before you start cleaning. If your jewellery is purely metal, there should not be any issues with cleaning them. However, if your jewellery pieces contain gemstones, it is crucial to check that all the gems are properly set and none are loose in their settings. Gently check the gemstones for any movement or signs of looseness.

The Cleaning Process:

Now that you have checked that your jewellery is suitable for cleaning, we can begin the process:

Apply a small amount of soap on the soft toothbrush. You do notrequire a large amount of soap; a tiny bit will suffice. You can always add more later if needed.
Dip your jewellery piece into the bowl of water to wet it.
Gently rub the surface of the jewellery with the toothbrush, paying close attention to every nook and cranny. Be meticulous in your cleaning, making sure to reach between beads and turn the piece over so that you clean both the front and back. Take your time to cover every square millimeter of the jewellery piece - Go over the entire surface at least once, or even twice if necessary.
Rinsing and Drying: After each round of cleaning with soap, rinse your jewellery pieces in the bowl of water. If possible, rinse the jewellery under running water as this is generally more effective than rinsing using the water in the bowl. (Note: Even when rinsing over running water, keeping the bowl under your jewellery prevents tiny components from getting washed down the sink.)

Soap residue can act as a magnet for dirt, so thorough rinsing is crucial to remove any remaining soap. Clean the brush thoroughly to wash all the soap from it. Use the brush to clean between beads or into intricate details, ensuring every bit of soap is removed.

After your jewellery pieces have been properly rinsed, place them onto a clean cloth or paper towels to dry fully. Now, take a moment to admire your cleaned jewellery pieces. Notice how beautifully the gold shines without any dirty brown areas caught in the grooves, and how the silver astounds you with its renewed lustre. The gemstones, whether diamonds or coloured stones, will regain their brilliance, making your jewellery look almost new.

Notes On Cleaning Different Types of Jewellery:

Metal Jewellery: Jewellery pieces that are fully metal (without gemstones) in gold or brass are relatively easy to clean. You can rub quite firmly against the metal surface with the soft toothbrush without causing damage. Clean the front, back, and sides of the piece thoroughly, especially textured areas where dirt tends to accumulate, and then rinse.
Gemstone Pieces: When dealing with jewellery adorned with gemstones, it is important to exercise caution. While brushing, be gentle to avoid any damage to the stones or the settings. You may notice a greyish or brownish residue coming off during the cleaning process, which indicates you’re removing dirt from the jewellery effectively. However, in the process of cleaning gems can become loose in their settings, so use your fingers to check for any movement of the gems after rinsing.
Silver Jewellery: Silver tends to tarnish over time, but this can be easily remedied. Rub the piece with the soft toothbrush, making sure to reach all the nooks and crannies on the jewellery. Pay special attention to the inside of rings, especially the area behind the stones, as cleaning this area can significantly enhance the sparkle of your diamonds and gemstones. If you have a pearl-adorned piece, handle it with extra care and gently go over the surface to avoid any damage.

The cleaning process sounds simple, doesn’t it? Not only is it fuss-free, but it also gives you the satisfaction of restoring shine and breathing new life into your favourite jewellery pieces. If you're passionate about gems and jewellery, or curious about the gemstones on the jewellery you own, then the GT100 – Gemmology and Trade Secrets course may be just the thing for you! This comprehensive course will provide you with in-depth knowledge about gemstones, their characteristics, and secrets of the trade that will help in your next gem purchase. It's the perfect opportunity to enhance your understanding and appreciation of these precious stones.

For those who are eager to take their love for jewellery to the next level, why not explore the world of jewellery making? At JDMIS, we offer a range of jewellery making courses that will unleash your creativity and allow you to craft beautiful pieces of your own. From designing to fabrication, you'll learn the art and techniques behind creating unique and personalized jewellery.

Tanja M. Sadow G.J.G.
Dean and founder of the Jewellery Design and Management International School

Diving into the Dazzling World of New and Uncommon Gems

tanja@jdmis.edu.sg (Tanja Sadow) — Sat, 29 Jul 2023 07:49:10 +0800

Asian tastes for jewellery are slowly changing from the traditional and well loved Rubies, Emeralds, Sapphires and Diamonds to other exciting and equally beautiful alternatives. What is not so well known is that today is that over 4,700 species of minerals have been recognized to date, and there are at least 100 proposals for new minerals submitted each year! Not every mineral will pass as a “gem” but if Beautiful, Durable and to some extent Rare these factors would qualify the mineral as a Gem. This means that today we truly have a great selection of beautiful Gems to choose from which can be enjoyed and appreciated as much as the more commonly recognized offerings.

Sample of garnet from JDMIS' gemmology course

Garnets in every Colour!

Garnets have an interesting history found to date back to the Bronze Age. Although a majority of garnets come in red (leading to the erroneous belief that all garnets are red) the Garnet group is actually much larger than most people realize.

Red garnet's relative abundance and widespread use has contributed to a lower price than other gems in its league, but the more rare Tsavorite (green), Mandarin (orange) and Blue (change of colour) garnets are amongst the most valuable and fashionable gem materials and can be found in the latest high jewellery collections around the globe. The most expensive blue Garnet, of just over 4cts, sold for $6.8 million in 2003.

Unlike nearly every other gem material, Garnet is also one of the few gems can be considered truly natural – it is not commonly treated in any way – making even affordable specimens uniquely ‘all-natural’. Despite the profusion of garnets available today, this beautiful and varied gem material remains a popular choice for collectors with an interest in its long history, eye for its beauty and desire for its durability and affordability.

Sample of spinel from JDMIS' gemmology course

Spinel – Now more rare than Ruby

Spinel is a gem that has often been overshadowed by Ruby, but as more people have come to discover this beautiful mineral it has emerged from the shadows and is finally receiving recognition as a treasured gem in its own right. It is sought after by gem dealers and collectors on account of its brilliance, hardness and wide range of spectacular colours. In addition to beautiful rich reds which imitate ruby and rare cobalt blue hues that convincingly look like blue sapphire. Spinel can also be found in a range of gorgeous pastel shades of pink, purple and even some ‘change-of-colour’ specimens.

Spinel is not only an attractive but a historically important gem that has been commonly mistaken with ruby for centuries and so many of these famous red gems set in Royal crown jewels and exclusive collections around the world have now been discovered to be spinel. Some of the best red, pink and orange spinels are uncovered in Burma’s Mogok Stone Tract. The best blue and violet colours come from Sri Lanka, black colours are found in Thailand. Spinel is also mined in Vietnam, Tanzania, Madagascar and the Pamir mountains of Tajikistan.

In modern jewellery, Spinel is gaining popularity and is now commonly recognized by dealers and connoisseurs as an exceptionally rare and valuable gem, on par with rubies and sapphires, in fact Red Spinel is now said to be more rare than Ruby!

Sample of tanzanite from JDMIS' gemmology course

Tanzanite – More rare than Diamonds

This amazing gem is very young compared to the traditional gems found centuries ago. It was discovered by Masai Tribesmen as recently as 1967, and is only found in one place on earth: Tanzania, East Africa; hence its name Tanzanite. The only known deposit of tanzanite is located on a hilltop, an area only around 5 miles long by 1 mile wide. Tanzanite was given its name by Tiffany & Co, who recognized the beauty and value of this alluring gemstone and started to promote it in 1968 but still today there are many who have not yet discovered this enticing gem.

Tanzanite is pleochroic, which means that it shows different colours depending on the viewing angle. This means that Gem cutters must properly orient tanzanite In order to get the preferred blue or violet-blue hue from the face-up position. The vivid blue of tanzanite can rival any fine sapphire and the natural crystals are routinely heated to enhance these fine blue and violet hues. Although Tanzanite is usually clean to the eye, today mostly small crystals are found, with occasionally a large crystal of excellent quality.

Sunstone, an alternative to Moonstone.

Sunstone is from the Feldspar Group of minerals and is formed from crystals in cooling lava flows. Moonstone is found in the same mineral Group. Mainly mined in Oregon, USA this gem commonly occurs in pale yellow, shades of red, orange, and even green. It exhibits an unusual feature known as the Schiller effect, in which tiny silk-like inclusions in the gemstone reflect light making it appear to glow as if from an internal light source; it is because of this fiery effect that the gem got its name. Sunstone is not treated or altered in any way when used in jewellery. This is one of the most naturally appealing gems, relying on its inherent beauty and glow. The reddest sunstones typically are the most valuable, and each one looks very unique in appearance.

Sample of moldavite gemstone from JDMIS' gemmology course

Moldavite the gem from Outer Space

Moldavite is found in the Czech Republic. It extraterrestrial in nature, as these crystals were formed about 20 million years ago when meteors crashed to the Earth. The impact of these meteorites hitting the rock on earth caused the existing rock to melt and fuse with the meteors, creating a new crystal made of both extraterrestrial and terrestrial material. It belongs to the Tektite group of minerals, which is a small family of natural glass rocks.

Moldavite is usually a deep bottle green with natural surface etchings, and is translucent when held up to light. Pieces vary in size and thickness.

The total amount of moldavite in the world is estimated to be about 275 tonnes' worth. Previously, there were four moldavite mines in operation throughout the Czech Republic, but today only one pit remains, which legally produces moldavite on a commercial level. It is estimated that all gem-quality moldavite will be completely exhausted in about ten years' time.

The world of gems awaits discovery at the JDMIS

If you are interested to discover more about these and many other interesting gems you are in luck as you will not have to travel too far! The JDMIS, Jewellery Design and Management International School, is central and open to all who love gems and jewellery. Providing exceptional education to the jewellery trade and to aficionados and collectors in Singapore and the region, its most popular course is entitled ‘Gem and Jewellery Trade Secrets’. Participants in this exclusive course explore the world of gems and jewellery using over 1800 gem exhibits, allowing them to see and examine natural, treated and imitation specimens to fully appreciate the variety of gems on the market. Limited to only 8-12 participants, this fascinating course is personally taught by me in the new blended (hybrid) learning mode and remains the JDMIS’ highest rated jewellery programme.

Tanja M. Sadow G.J.G.
Dean and founder of the Jewellery Design and Management International School

From Pharaohs to Fashionistas: The Intriguing Journey of Jewellery Design

tanja@jdmis.edu.sg (Tanja Sadow) — Sun, 28 May 2023 09:10:12 +0800

Cartier - Mackay Emerald and Diamond Necklance, 1931 - Smithsonian National Gem Collection

In Asia people have an inherent love for gems and jewellery and hence we see some of the most beautiful and valuable jewellery designs of investment quality. What few know is that of all the gold worn today approximately 85% is recycled. What this ultimately means is that you could be wearing the same gold as a past King, Queen, Pharaoh or Emperor! The history of jewellery is one of the most fascinating to unravel as we all have a connection, sentimental or otherwise to the jewellery we wear.

As a universal form of adornment, jewellery has survived from prehistoric times. The earliest forms were worn as protection from the dangers of life or as a mark of status or rank.

Pectoral plaque bearing the name of Ramesses II, 13th Century BC - Louvre Museum, France

In the ancient world the discovery of how to work with metals and the development of many intricate techniques was important in the advancement of the art of jewellery. Metalworking techniques have changed over time but many of these processes remain much the same. Even modern mass production techniques are based on principles used in jewellery thousands of years ago.

We are fortunate that in early times gold and jewellery, considered valuable, was buried with the dead so as to accompany its owner into the afterlife. From this we are able to learn much about the people, their styles and what was considered important in their cultures.

Sutton Hoo Shoulder Clasp, 7th Century - British Museum

The Dunstable Swan Jewel, 15th Century - British Museum

The jewellery of the Middle-ages reflected an intensely hierarchical and status-conscious society. Only the royals or nobles were allowed to wear gold, silver and precious gems. More humble ranks wore base metals, such as copper or pewter. Glass was used together with natural gems for its colour and beauty and the fact that is was difficult to distinguish it from other minerals.

Few gems were faceted this early on but polished “en cabochon” a smooth facet-less style of cutting. Glass techniques also gained in popularity, especially the use of ground glasses fired at high temperature onto a metal surface – a technique now known as enamelling. This technique allowed goldsmiths to add bright colour to their designs as, historically, colour was one of the most important factors in determining value. Some jewels of this period had cryptic or magical inscriptions as life was short and dangerous and people believed in protective powers the gems offered.

Renaissance jewellery, 15th Century - British Museum

Spanish gold and emerald pendant, 14th Century - Victoria and Albert Museum, UK

By the Renaissance many goldsmiths were trained as artists in sculpture and art and created some of the most amazing miniatures. Enamels were still very popular and often covered both sides of the jewel, and became more splendid, elaborate and colourful. This is when advances were made in cutting minerals which increased the beauty and value of gems and the beginning of faceted gems as we know them today. Many mythological figures became popular as well as the revival of intricate carving of minerals into cameos and intaglios which had been enjoyed by the Romans and other ancient civilisations.

Later changes in clothing fashion introduced new styles of jewellery. Global trade increased and new varieties of gems came to be worn and appreciated. Some of the most impressive pieces were large body ornaments while others more towards nature and a popular botanical movement.

Reproduction gold lion head Scythian bracelet based on original from the 8th Century BC - British Museum

Imperial Crown of the Holy Roman Empire, 10th Century - Kunsthistorisches Museum, Vienna

Art Nouveau jewellery element, 1895

Diamonds, mounted in silver, began to sparkle more than ever and came to dominate jewellery design as magnificent sets were essential for court life. Around the 19th century there was a huge change both industrial and social, but for jewellery the classical and ancient styles from the past were revived and sought after stimulated by archaeological discoveries in Egypt and Rome. Many goldsmiths revived ancient techniques and imitated the discovered archaeological jewellery.

At the end of the 19th Century an arts and crafts movement developed in protest to the ever increasing advancements in industrialization. Jewellers focused on hand-crafting individual jewels with a variety of lesser known and less valuable minerals. Most gems were cabochons, not faceted, with less symmetrical and repetitive design and more focus on nature with soft flowing curved lines, women often blended with insects creating fantasy and an escape from reality. This developed into the famous Art Nouveau style.

The next important style was produced as a result in difficult times through depression and war, when many craved for glamour. This change in the times brought about a new and different style with angular, geometric patterns which, in contrast to Art Nouveau, celebrated the machine age, while blending this look with the exotic elegance of the Near and Far East.

Cartier New York Art Deco Diamond Sapphire Bracelet, 1947 - Sothebys

Reproduction Victorian Heart Locket - SteamSect

Jewellery designs have changed faster in recent years with traditions being challenged by successive generations of independent jewellers who have an uphill task in striving to develop their own unique and distinguishable styles.

Technologies play a large part in the jewellery of today and as these new technologies are introduced at a relentless pace, many traditional jewellers struggle to remain current with new techniques and trends. As artists we would like to believe it is easier in a world where we have so much information at our fingertips but we also loose the space and serenity with the deluge of the information age has brought.

Many jewellery artists and aficionados enjoy travelling back in time, to the ornate highlights of the past, to discover how our ancestors lived and the beautiful jewellery they wore. Exploring the fascinating and creative directions jewellery has taken is both a source of endless inspiration as well as a breath of fresh air in our busy lives.

If you are an aspiring jewellery artist, the top thing you need to succeed (after mastering your skills!) is a good grasp of trends and themes. Exploring the rich world of jewellery through the ages can help you build the right vocabulary for a designer and even identify and combine themes that resonate with you to produce something new and distinct! The JDMIS certification in Epic Jewellery and Contemporary Trends was especially created by me to fulfil this important need.

Tanja M. Sadow G.J.G.
Dean and founder of the Jewellery Design and Management International School

Jewellery Design – An Interesting Choice For A Fashion Design Course In Singapore

tanja@jdmis.edu.sg (Tanja Sadow) — Sat, 01 Apr 2023 07:11:50 +0800

Fashion design often evokes images of haute couture – high-end, quality garments made from expensive and unusual fabrics that are seen in glamorous fashion shows. However, this is not the only aspect that fashion entails – what if you’re looking to join the fashion industry but fabrics and textiles aren’t exactly your thing?

Fashion design is the art of applying design, aesthetics, construction, and beauty to clothing and other lifestyle accessories. Jewellery is a huge part of lifestyle accessories, and while it may not be at the forefront of our minds when we think of fashion, it plays an integral part in completing a fashion ensemble.

Traditionally in fashion, jewellery was used to complement the clothing – the types of jewellery that could be worn were determined and restricted by the fashion styles and fabrics of the time. Over time, however, jewellery began to shine on its own and was no longer regarded merely as ornamentation for a particular outfit. These days, the jewellery we wear can completely change the way we perceive an outfit, whether as a final touch to complete your everyday look or the highlight of your ensemble to make a fashion statement. Even in high fashion, jewellery is growing in prominence as luxury brands seek collaborations with jewellery designers and jewellery pieces are created specifically for fashion shows.

With increasing attention given to jewellery, the art of jewellery design becomes crucial in the world of fashion. Jewellery and dazzling gemstones contribute significantly to the glitz and glamour that we perceive in fashion, but what most people don’t realise is how jewellery design expertise plays a critical role in elevating and ensuring that the gemstones are shown off to the best of their potential.

High fashion aside, the importance of jewellery design is also prevalent in people’s daily lives. Most people adorn themselves with jewellery for a myriad of reasons, be it a sign of marital status, indication of religious connection, token of friendship or romance, charm for good luck, or for personal expression. These jewellery pieces often hold great sentimental value and are worn for long periods of time, which makes the expertise of the jewellery designer critical because their designs must be attractive, long-lasting and comfortable for the wearer to enjoy.

Whether you are looking to create one-of-a-kind statement pieces, produce trendy designs for mass-production, or craft bespoke designs that mark special occasions in your customers’ lives, jewellery design offers exciting opportunities for anyone looking to carve out their niche in the fashion industry.

The Jewellery Design and Management School (JDMIS) is a leading Jewellery School in Singapore and Asia. Its Diploma in Fine Jewellery Design is a highly unique Fashion Design Course in Singapore, a perfect entry point for anyone interested in exploring new opportunities in the jewellery and fashion industry. JDMIS is Singapore’s only specialised jewellery training institution and its several different Diploma coursesprovide students with a solid foundation in jewellery with a focus on both the creative and technical aspects of design.

Tanja M. Sadow G.J.G.
Dean and founder of the Jewellery Design and Management International School

5 things to look out for in a good silversmithing course

tanja@jdmis.edu.sg (Tanja Sadow) — Thu, 23 Mar 2023 07:11:50 +0800

Silversmithing is the art of fabricating objects and jewellery from sterling silver or fine silver and is an extremely useful and rewarding skill to pick up if you like one-of-a-kind pieces or enjoy the challenge of handcrafting. There are many options available to kickstart your learning journey, but not all courses are created equal. Before you dive headfirst into the first silversmithing course you chance upon, take a step back to consider 5 things that will make a difference in helping you get the most out of your class.

Course Syllabus

Unless you’re looking for a fun, one-off silversmithing experience, the course that you choose should help you build a solid foundation that will enable you to apply the fundamentals to projects that you undertake in the future. Your course should include exposure to different tools and materials as well as impart a range of basic techniques.

These include:

Fundamentals in shaping raw materials and producing malleable metal sheets and wires that are needed to start any project
Essential techniques like sawing, piercing, and drilling that are critical to any silversmith or metalsmith

Other important processes to bring a piece of jewellery to life, such as soldering, texturing, stone setting, and professional finishes

Tools and materials needed

The tools and materials you need throughout the course should be clearly stated or provided so that you don’t get surprised by hidden extra costs after signing up for your class. It is also a good idea to find out what tools and materials you get to bring home with you after the course – this will ensure a seamless transition for you to continue practicing at home, without the hassle of needing to source for your own tools.

Some essential tools for silversmithing include:

A jewellery bench pin
A high-speed hanging rotary drill or bench-top drill
A torch
Other tools of the trade

Instructors

A good instructor is critical to a good silversmithing course, and should ideally be someone with practical experience in the jewellery industry. He/she should be proficient in imparting their knowledge and skills to new learners, as well as provide valuable advice and insight for those who aspire to join the jewellery industry.

Class size and learning environment

A safe learning environment is of utmost importance, especially when misuse of tools and equipment can cause injuries. A good silversmithing course must have the proper equipment and safety guidelines set in place in order to ensure the safety of students. The size of your silversmithing class is also something to consider – a small class means that you’ll be able to receive more attention and individual feedback from the instructor on your projects.

Opportunity for further progression

For those of you wish to take your interest in silversmithing further by pursuing a career or setting up a jewellery business, you may want to consider enrolling in a course in an accredited training school. An internationally recognition certification, or even diploma, upon completion of your silversmithing course will help to open doors should you wish to further your training or find a job in the industry.

The Jewellery Design and Management International School (JDMIS) is a unique school in Singapore, specializing in jewellery training, and offers silversmithing courses that fulfil all five considerations elaborated in the checklist above. Its silversmithing and metalsmithing course covers the fundamentals of metalwork and introduces the use of various tools and materials that participants will be able to take with them even after completing the course.

Tanja M. Sadow G.J.G.
Dean and founder of the Jewellery Design and Management International School